Nestled in the heart of Tuscany, the historic town of Volterra is renowned for its medieval architecture, Etruscan heritage, and breathtaking landscapes. However, beyond its picturesque streets lies a haunting reminder of Italy’s past, the former psychiatric hospital of Volterra, known as Ospedale Psichiatrico di Volterra.

This abandoned asylum stands as a testament to the mistreatment of mental health patients in the 19th and 20th centuries and offers a poignant glimpse into a darker chapter of medical history.

A Glimpse into the Past: The History of the Volterra Asylum

Established in 1888, the psychiatric hospital was originally located in the poorhouse section of the former convent of San Girolamo. Under the direction of Dr. Luigi Scabia from 1900 to 1934, the facility expanded significantly, transforming into a self-sustaining “village” complete with carpentry, bakery, shops, and even a brick kiln. Patients were involved in various work activities, including archaeological excavations that uncovered the Roman theater of Volterra. Despite these progressive initiatives, the asylum’s reputation remained marred by the widespread use of controversial treatments such as electroshock therapy and lobotomy.

By the 1960s, the hospital had become one of Italy’s largest asylums, housing over 6,000 patients. Conditions were deplorable, with overcrowding leading to inadequate sanitation and care. The facility earned the grim nickname “the place of no return,” as many patients were admitted for minor issues and never left. It wasn’t until the enactment of Law 180 in 1978, which mandated the closure of all psychiatric hospitals in Italy, that the Volterra asylum was shut down.


The Legacy of Oreste Fernando Nannetti

One of the most poignant aspects of the asylum’s history is the story of Oreste Fernando Nannetti, a patient who spent years engraving the walls of the courtyard using a belt buckle. His work, known as “N.O.F.4,” is a complex cycle of science fiction stories covering a surface 180 meters long and 2 meters high. These engravings provide a unique insight into the mind of a man confined to the institution and have become a symbol of the resilience of the human spirit.


Visiting the Volterra Asylum Today

Today, the former psychiatric hospital stands abandoned, its crumbling structures overtaken by nature. While the site is not officially open to the public, guided tours are available through organizations like I Luoghi dell’Abbandono, which offer in-depth visits to the asylum’s various pavilions, including the judicial section where Nannetti’s engravings are located. These tours provide a respectful and informative experience, shedding light on the asylum’s history and the lives of those who were once confined there.


How to Reach Volterra

Volterra is situated approximately 50 kilometers southwest of Florence, making it accessible for day trips or extended stays. The town is well-connected by road, and visitors can reach it via the SS68 road from Cecina or Colle di Val d’Elsa. While there is no direct train service to Volterra, the nearest train stations are in Cecina and Pontedera, from where buses or taxis can be taken to the town.


Where to Stay in Volterra

Volterra offers a range of accommodation options to suit various preferences and budgets. For those seeking a luxurious experience, Hotel San Lino provides elegant rooms and stunning views of the Tuscan countryside. For a more rustic experience, Agriturismo Il Palagetto offers charming farmhouses surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Additionally, Borgo Pignano offers a blend of luxury and sustainability, set in a beautifully restored historic estate.


Further Reading and Resources

  • “Corrispondenza Negata”: A book that collects letters written by patients of the Volterra asylum, many of which were never sent.

  • “Oreste Fernando Nannetti: N.O.F.4”: A detailed account of Nannetti’s life and his engravings at the asylum.

  • I Luoghi dell’Abbandono: An organization offering guided tours of abandoned sites in Italy, including the Volterra asylum.


Important Considerations for Visitors

  • Safety: The asylum buildings are in a state of disrepair, and some areas may be hazardous. It’s essential to wear appropriate footwear and exercise caution.

  • Respect: The site holds significant historical and emotional value. Visitors should approach with respect and sensitivity to the experiences of those who were once confined there.

  • Legal Access: Ensure that any visit is conducted through authorized channels to avoid trespassing on private property.

Reflecting on the Past

The Volterra asylum serves as a somber reminder of the mistreatment faced by mental health patients in the past. While the site is now abandoned, it stands as a testament to the resilience of the human spirit and the importance of compassionate care for all individuals. Visiting the asylum offers an opportunity to reflect on these lessons and ensure that such injustices are not repeated.